Well this is my second go with this pattern and it has got better! I tried the long sleeve version this time. I have never put cuffs on a sleeve before so that was a good lesson to learn. I am pleased with the end result although the cuffs are supposed to be double cuffs but since I forgot to measure the arm length before cutting (which was stupid as I KNOW I have longer than average arms) the sleeve was a bit short. Thankfully by leaving the cuffs as they are the sleeve was the right length.
I also forgot to lengthen the bodice a bit but I applied bias binding to the hem to keep the hem as short as possible. I self covered some buttons in the fabric scraps which I was really pleased with.
Overall I like the blouse although in retrospect I wish I had thought a bit more about how I cut it out as I would have liked the collar to have been in the pink/black check fabric. As you can see from my previous post the material had quite a wide band which was consumed by the facing as the facing on this blouse was part of the front as opposed to a separate piece. I could have cut the facing off, added a seam allowance and then could have got more of the pink/black check into the blouse. As it is the facing is all pink/black check which did show through the blouse until I put some interlining in.
Still all sewing is feedback so I learnt a lot on this project. I am going to have another go at this in a couple of months – I want to make a cotton, sleeveless version – this time I want to pin back the lapels. Still here is a reminder to lengthen the body first before I take hold of the scissors!!
Flushed with success from my first attempt at this pattern I decided to give it another go at an attempt for perfection. I bought this Rennie Mackintosh fabric from the School of Sewing shop when I did my Chanel Jacket course. (The fabic looks a bit yellow here but that is because my yellow cutting mat is showing through).
I love the fabric but the border runs down the grain lengthwise so although I would have liked to have the border at the bottom of my blouse I decided that cutting the pattern out across the grain was probably not a good idea. Unfortunately when cutting this most of the border disappeared into the facing on the blouse but managed to squeeze a small amount of the pink/black check on the buttonhole edge. I wanted to cut out the cuffs and collar from the border but as I cut out each piece individually rather than fold the material I had to incorporate a seam in the collar and then managed to cut out 2 collars facing the same way – Doh! I then didn’t have enough material to get the whole cuff out of the border – another doh! I really need to stop making these silly mistakes.
One of my objectives this year was to add some TNT patterns to my stash. I picked this pattern up from a local charity shop recently and decided to give it a go.
I had to make quite a few pattern adjustments – I always make a toile for a new pattern as I hate to spend a lot of time making something only to find it doesn’t fit. There are some adjustments I always have to do – I have narrow shoulders so always need to reduce the shoulder seams plus a narrow back as well as being short waisted. The other thing I find with vintage patterns is that the bust point is always too high for me – either women used to have high, pert busts or mine are sagging a bit nowadays.
With the toile I found I had to lower the bust point, narrow the shoulder seams, decrease the width of the waist dart and increase the side seams for my increased girth.
When I make my muslin I use old sheets, duvet covers that I pick up in charity shops – I use a long machine stitch to make it easy to rip apart and don’t bother with details such as collars etc as all I am looking for is a basic fit. For my first go at a pattern I usually select cheap material – this was a nice polyester that I purchased in the John Lewis sale for £5 a metre. It has a very silky feel to it and drapes beautifully.
I decided a few things after making this blouse:
1. Never to use iron on interfacing again – I can never get it to go on without wrinkling the fabric. I ended up tearing it out in the end which is not recommended and 2. Always stabilise buttonholes with extra interfacing as mine are a bit ragged to say the least.
Anyway despite the above I am really pleased with the result and now hoping for some warmer weather to wear this. I don’t really want to hide it under a black cardigan!!