Another McCalls 5136 Jacket

You know how sometimes you start to make something with one idea and during the creative process it morphs into something completely different? That is the fun part of sewing for me – when you start with the ‘what if?’ ideas in your head and then go with them to see where it takes you. This is what happened during the making of this jacket. I had some material leftover from making the skirt for my re-fashioned dress and decided to see if I could squeeze out a jacket/cardigan albeit with aforementioned moth hole! My intention was to make a plain black jacket and perhaps add some braid to ‘liven’ it up a bit.

As you may know I hate seams and raw edges etc to show on the inside of my garments and the jacket was really light and quite insubstantial so I decided to line it halfway through the sewing process which is when I had one of those ‘light bulb’ moments and decided to use the discarded skirt material from my refashioned dress. I didn’t have enough to do the sleeves but I could live with that. As I was putting in the lining I then saw that if I folded back the jacket front I had a nice contrast which then led me to add some contrasting cuffs in the same material and hey presto before you know it I had a matching jacket for my dress.

Black2 Black3 Black1


..and the inside


I have only photographed it on my dummy as I couldn’t bear the thought of another ‘modelling’ session – am I the only one who hates having her photo taken?


On another note while I was hand sewing my lining into place I had another thought which was that since doing the Couture Dress class with Susan Khalje through Craftsy I will take any opportunity to hand sew rather than use my machine. I love the control that hand sewing gives you and my favourite stitch of all is fell stitch. I can quite happily sit in my sewing ‘cave’ with Radio 4 on in the background fell stitching my way through the Archers and Gardeners Question Time – I am quite the expert now on the right soil conditions for your azaleas – shame I don’t have a garden to practice in!

McCalls 5136

Well it seems that warmer weather may at last be on its way to the UK so contrary mary that I am I decided to finish a winter suit that has been languishing in my UFO pile for quite a while. It was my second forage into vintage pattern sewing and I chose this pattern from McCalls. I don’t know why I always get seduced by the covers on vintage patterns as the women look so slim and elegant but the end result is never the same on my more, shall we say, rounded figure? However I always find that vintage patterns tend to be a better fit for me than their modern equivalent which is strange.


I made the jacket a few months ago – this was intended to be a try out for the pattern and I used some sale fabric from John  Lewis which to be honest was probably intended for a coat. I just couldn’t find the right trim to finish this off until I went to Paris. I used the black chanel braid purchased there – I ummed and aaahed about using it on this project as after all it is a long way to Paris if I wanted more. I did make a straight skirt rather than a pencil one from the pattern as my hips will not bear that kind of scrutiny. I made a few mistakes on this – one I didn’t match up the pattern very well on the centre back seam of the skirt and secondly I don’t know what possessed me to put a stay lining in the back which only added to the bulk around the collar which is quite horrendous as I also have a facing there. Luckily my hair is shoulder length and hides most of the damage. Third I should have made the sleeves a bit longer. Apart from that it is perfect 🙂 Still we live and learn.


Here are some more piccies –


Oops skirt is not on straight!


The lining:

InsideJacket1 SkirtInside

Actually I prefer these as separates – the jacket looks nice with my black trousers (there’s a surprise) and the skirt looks really nice with a red jumper so they may end up like sausage and trifle – rarely seen in the same dish unless you are a ‘Come dine with me’ contestant. Actually I prefer the inside anyway but that would be a step too far!